Useful Products
This page is a selection of helpful products for guinea pigs. Some are related to enrichment, others to husbandry or veterinary care - if related to veterinary care, always discuss products with your vet.
Indoor 'C and C' setups
I recommend 'C and C' enclosures (cubes and correx) as indoor accommodation. In the image you can see part of a 'C and C' setup, the grids are easily connected by connectors. You can buy extra grids and connectors when needed. Two sites where C and C setups are available: https://candcguineapigcages.co.uk/standard-cages/ and https://kaveecage.co.uk/There are so many cages sold in shops or online that are totally unsuitable and cruel because they are too small and designed without taking into account species-specific needs; these very outdated cages are based on old laboratory cages, not designed with animal welfare in mind. Just because a pet shop sells cages, don't assume these are suitable.
Houses
There are many guinea pig houses on the market, both online and in shops. The image shows a log dome which are great refuges, they can be used in conjunction with other houses/shelters. Always check the house is made from untreated material and check the measurements online carefully because some companies state 'suitable for guinea pigs' but are too small when they arrive. One point to make here is that houses with multiple entries/exits encourage ventilation, allowing fresh air to pass through, especially helpful when it gets hot. In addition, if more than one piggy is in a house which has multiple doorways, they all get to sit in and poke their heads out, simultaneously satisfying their need for safety and curiosity at the same time!
Avoid houses with partial entry/exit holes; for a full explanation see 'Important note on houses' on the Enrichment page); I have noticed that piggies tend to knock their legs/feet on these, instead select completely open entry/exit holes.
You may know someone who is great at carpentry - my friend Reta, the owner of Coseley Guinea Pig Rescue and Sanctuary has large houses made by a friend.
Other housing/refuge
Different shelter types can be used for housing around your piggies' accommodation, such as log domes and open-type shelters, seen above, can be used with lots of hay. I combine the shelter with a 'Pet Lounge Design' hay rack (below) because it fits nicely in the shelter's frame.
'Pet Lounge Design' hay rack
Belle is sat under the cover of this 'Pet Lounge Design' hay rack, making use of the shelter it provides, as well as munching on hay while she sits.
Tunnels
The guinea pigs I have owned or cared for, have all enjoyed tunnels in their environment. Different companies sell them; I have used 'Rosewood Naturals Woven Play Tunnels' and 'Trixie wicker tunnels' and 'Trixie fleece-lined tunnels'. They function in allowing piggies to explore an area, knowing they can run for refuge inside them if they suddenly feel scared, or if they just want to settle for a nap. I have also used 'Rosewood Boredom Breaker' tunnels, but it's worth bearing in mind that after a while synthetic tunnels do fray, which exposes the wire inside - this is a potential hazard, especially if the wire pops out suddenly. Even natural material when eaten or worn, can stick out. Tunnels will need cleaning too due to pee and poop, so it's a good idea to get in a daily check.
Rosewood woven play tunnel (left) and a Rosewood seagrass play tunnel (right) or top and bottom if viewing on a mobile
Natural material tunnels
The 'Rosewood Woven Play Tunnel', 'Rosewood Seagrass Play Tunnel' and 'Trixie Wicker Tunnels' are examples of these. The 'Rosewood Woven or Seagrass Play Tunnels' don't have glue or wires. Different sizes are available. Likewise, the 'Trixie Wicker Tunnels' are available in different sizes with no glue or wire; some 'Trixie' wicker tunnels are sold filled with hay to encourage foraging. They help in creating a stimulating environment for piggies, especially when consideration is given to their placement and connection with other tunnels.
Trixie fleece-lined tunnel
These short tunnels are fleece-lined, I find guinea pigs love to play in these. They create a snug refuge. Be mindful that on warm days it may be advisable to remove fleece items to help keep piggies cool and check for any fraying/exposed wires.
Bottles and Bowls
I use 'Living World' glass drinking bottles but there are other brands that sell glass bottles, for example 'Classic' and 'Trixie'. They all have carrot 'floaters' so you can see the water level. I have concerns about using plastic to store water, especially over the long-term, so I have opted for glass. Piggies will drink from bowls too and may prefer a bowl to drink from, so providing both bottles and bowls allows your pets to choose :) Choose shallow bowls that cannot be tipped over.
Smart Choice Bone Puzzle
Sometimes you can use feeding enrichment in the form of a puzzle such as 'Smart Choice Bone Puzzle'. Enrichment should be stimulating and appropriately challenging, in other words, something that is not beyond the physical capability of the animal, otherwise this can cause frustration and stress. So be mindful of this with regard to enrichment tools.
'Pop-up' Emergency Accommodation
If for any reason you need an extra 'holding space' for temporary, emergency situations, a pop-up pen can be useful. The image shows a 'pop-up' when it has just been folded out. If not waterproof, then provide an absorbent layer for the base. Ensure temporary protection and nutrition is provided e.g. shelter, refuge, water, hay etc.
Safe Branches, Logs or Stands
Small branches from safe, non-toxic, tree species e.g. woodgreen advice, or purpose-made 'tree stands', can be used for enrichment. Always make sure your piggies are safe - 'trees' or stands should not be unstable, make sure that they are secure when you put them in piggy accommodation. Ensure wood is not treated with any chemicals. Holes can be used to place healthy treats in, to forage from.
Purpose-made Forage Balls
Various balls made of natural materials are available on the market which are useful for foraging enrichment - 'nature first' do a 'Willow Ball'. 'Rosewood' do a trio of 'Boredom Breaker' balls. You can see from the 'nature first' 'willow ball' in the image, that there are plenty of holes in which forage can be inserted - check after to remove remaining food items.
Calming Products
You may see anti-anxiety products on the market. Research on the efficacy of anti-anxiety products is still limited for small pets like rabbits and guinea pigs so before trying anything, ask your vet/vet nurse about such products and how to use them; your pets well may need actual medication rather than an anti-anxiety product. 'Pet Remedy' and 'Nutracalm' (by 'Nutravet') are two examples of these in the UK. I have used Pet Remedy under the guidance of specialist veterinary nurses, due to their knowledge about guinea pigs. When Belle was very anxious after losing her sister and then surgery, nurses were able to give me advice.
Critical Care/Recovery Food
There are various powder formulas available for poorly guinea pigs. 'Oxbow Critical Care' is one example. These formulas are in the form of a powder, which when mixed with water forms a paste-like nutritious food for guinea pigs when they are ill/convalescing. The 'Oxbow' feeding formula is available in different flavours including papaya and anise (as seen in the image) among others. Critical Care or Recovery formulas should be available to purchase from your veterinary clinic, they may have one they recommend. They can be bought online too. You can obtain syringes from your vet clinic. It is worth having at home in case of sudden illness - I always ensure I have some.
Ice Pods and other helpful tools
Ice pods are great for warm weather, to help prevent heatstroke. I use Scratch and Newton ice pods but there are other brands. When they first come out of the freezer, wrap them with a cloth (to prevent ice burn) - see image of Rosie resting her paws on an ice pod with cloth cover. Guinea pigs may place their paws, press their tummies, sit on these cooler surfaces or simply rest near them. It is helpful to have several in the freezer so they can just be swapped over once they are no longer cool. Plastic bottles can be filled with water and frozen. These can then be wrapped in a towel, tea towel or even socks (to prevent ice burn) and placed on accommodation flooring. You can also use stone tiles, which can be cooled in the fridge - a word of caution with these - they must be monitored because heat from animal bodies or the sun will cause them to become hot, so they will need to be changed regularly.
Pre- and Probiotics
If your guinea pigs need to take antibiotics, have a chat to your vet about pre/probiotics, to help with any potential disruption of the gut microbiome, caused by the antibiotic. Under my vet's guidance I have used such a product, your vet may recommend a particular one that they like.
